I made myself a Lazy Susan (turntable) with a veneered chessboard on the surface. It is great for board games and serving food.
I used a variety of tools at the Makerspace to complete this project. This was the first time I have used veneer in a pattern on a surface.
The top and bottom pieces of wood were roughly cut into circles. Then made round and channels added using a router. Dividers were made on a scroll saw and holes drilled for marbles. A bolt holds the top and bottom together. Veneers were cut into squares and the edges sanded before applying them to the top. More veneer was added to the top before sanding it flat. After a few repairs to the top surface the turntable was varnished and felt feet were applied to the bottom.
Small sign made of hardwood — using a simple 2 euro ‘V shaped’ cutter from the bargin bin at the Gamma.
The machine used for this is our large portal CNC machine. The font was simply a windows font; and I cheated a bit by first routing the outline of that font, inner and outer with a normal 3mm ball-nose endmill; and then run the v-cutter along the same path.
By combining the use of the venyl cutter with the sandblasting cabinet you can create great artwork on glass. By sandblasting glass you give the glass a rough surface that reflects light differently than the clear glass.
First you need to make a mold on the venyl cutter. You can do this with any vector-based drawing program. We prefer to make use of ‘open source’ software so Inkscape is a good starting point. When you have created the lines that difine the shape of your artwork you can send it to the venyl cutter, which cuts it in special sandblasting foil.
Then peel off the parts that you want to sandblast, which is easier said than done. Especially if your object is rather small.
Then you put it on a transfer foil and stick it to the glasswork that you want to sandblast. Cover all the parts where you don’t want the sand to roughen the surface.
All that’s left to do is to sandblast in the designated cabinet. Make sure that you blast all the uncovered parts of your object. Easy peasy…;-)
The first week of April we cleaned and realigned the optics of our Lasersaur. It works like new now. The first trial I did was an Icarus Automaton. It’s based on a Cupid Instructable by robives.com . My pupils at school are working on an Icarus/Daedalus assignment an I thought: “Why not make an Icarus myself”.
And this is how it looks, when it moves But of course a trail also brings some flaws to light. The Laser cutter still needs some tweaking of the optics… as you can see on the photo’s of the front and back of the cut plywood for my automaton
I worked with plywood 3mm with a base coat white paint. The lasersaur was set to speed 1000 at 40% powerit worked good on most places, but there is a zone close to 0 that loses power through alignment problems. Were almost there though… And my project was finished in no time!
This is my coffee table made from American walnut (gray), Oak (white) and Padouk (red). These colors are natural. This Padouk has a rare grain pattern, the white ‘clouds’ are sap-wood, which are normally not mixed with the older red tinted wood. I love finding these rare woods and combining them into beautiful tabletops. The table is a simple and lightweight design, finished with Skylt polyurethane finish.
MakerSpace Leiden member Hans Delsink recently hosted a woodworking workshop on how to create tenons and mortises using power tools. Tenons and mortises are a common yet very effective way to create a solid mechanical joint between two pieces of wood.
Hans’s technique involves a router table and a mortiser, making this operation fast and repeatable. Both tools are available at MSL.
Although router tables are fairly common and can be used for a lot of different jobs, a mortiser’s sole purpose is to make square holes. Drilling a few of these next to each other creates a slot and voilà, a perfectly square mortise in a fraction of the time it would take with hand tools.
We’re improving our dust-control. This sees us connecting the various machines up to a central dust and chip separator and vac-shop.
But we needed some sort of valves; so we do not waste precious flow capacity on machines that are not in use. Unfortunately the PVC ball valves we got where very stiff (especially when cold). And it would not be long before the handles would break.
We tried lubing them – to no avail.
Ultimately we broke out one of the largest tools we have at the makerspace; the abene mill.